Click on thumbnail to see big photo.
| Jacked up back end on axle stands. Removed rear wheels Removed hub grease cup (by destroying it). I believe you can get plastic ones. |
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| Releaved the peened section of the hub nut. | ![]() |
| Using a 44mm socket (or 1 3/4") and a long tube, removed hub nut. | ![]() |
| Slacken off brake adjuster cams. Turn them towards the cylinder by 1/4 turn. |
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| Even with the adjuster cams slackened off the drum was still tight on the shoes. | ![]() |
| Removed shoe steady pin slot washer. (That's what the Haynes manual calls it.) | ![]() |
| Bent back the lockwasher tabs and unscrewed the lower shoe pivot nuts. Removed shoes. | ![]() |
| The cylinders are siezed so will have to come
out - but how? Can get an open-ended 10mm spanner on the nut but there is no room to turn it. The white lines show the obstructions. |
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| A ring spanner won't go on, either. | ![]() |
| A posting to 2CV-L reveals that in France they use a tool called 'clé à pipe'. US brand 'Bahco' and 10mm 3/8" drive thinwall socket by S-K Facom recommended. | ![]() |
| The nearest I can find in UK is a box wrench. | ![]() |