Click on this link to see pictures taken with this camera. 6cm x 4.5cm (135 also) camera overview. Model FP6045-50-001. The ideal portrait camera, with a unique internal shutter and a 35mm adaptor kit.     This camera has been designed using computer draughting software which has facilitated the drawing, design & modelling of the camera. A prototype confirmed the design.     The camera is constructed from MDF. Each panel has been varnished (at least three coats) prior to construction to give a top quality finish.     An unusual feature of this camera is the internal shutter. It gives an elegant, clean looking exterior to the camera. The shutter is self latching by the use of a magnet. This means there are no fiddly catches to operate, the shutter remains closed until you open it, and it remains open until you close it. Just turn the side knob around 90 degrees to operate the shutter.     The film frame is designed to be removable. If any damage should occur this part is easily replaced. It also provides the opportunity to define an interchangeable frame size of our own preference - for example a custom frame could be made for the 35mm adaptor kit (see below) to give the conventional 24mm x 36mm dimensions.     I have found that film loading can be eased considerably by removing the film frame, loading the film, then locating the film frame afterwards. Personal preference will determine the method used.     Fitting the lid of the camera is all that is required to hold the film frame in position.     The pinhole fitted is a hole punched into a piece of metal plate. I have tools which enable me to make good quality holes. It takes some practice to develop the skill and I have many, many rejects to show for it. It really is not as simple as just bludgeoning a hole through a piece of metal.     A crude hole will suffice, but to obtain the best image quality we need a hole of the diameter that we choose, and to be perfectly round (ragged, oval holes are easily achieved). My experience has also shown me that burrs manifest themselves at the least opportunity. Due to diffraction effects, burrs can only be detrimental to the end image quality.     In short, the pinholes I make are of the correct diameter, perfectly round and absolutely burr free, there can be no compromise in this area, as it is the 'lens' of the camera. My pinholes are checked for roundness and burrs, and are measured optically before I am satisfied.     You may be wondering how exposures are metered & timed. Exposures are estimated by referring to a table which crudely describes the lighting conditions. An exposure time is listed adjacent. I carry a printed card with me which is calibrated to the camera in use. Focal length, pinhole diameter and film speed affect the exposure required so the reference table must reflect this. I have never used a light meter and have been very surprised at my success rate.     My advice would be to choose a film ISO and stick to it always (I always use ISO100). This way you will become accustomed to estimating an exposure time for any given ambient light conditions.     Exposures are measured in 'elephants'. Say to yourself, "one elephant, two elephant, three elephant' and you will have measured out three seconds quite accurately. Longer times may require the use of your watch though. My longest exposure so far has been 45 minutes!     Do not dismiss the viewfinder for its simplicity, it is very effective and gives good guidance on the composure of your shot. You may wish to leave it at home and get the 'full' pinhole photography experience though.     Having wind-on and rewind knobs gives the facility to be able to position the film precisely. If the film is wound on too far, there is no problem, the film is just repositi- oned with the other knob. It is not always the case that the frame number on the film backing paper sits central to the frame counter window. This is correct, the window has been positioned so that it works with many makes of film (which all seem to have the frame number in a different place), so the alignment will always be a compromise.     When winding on the film, I tend to use both knobs, feeding in slack at the same time as advancing the film. Turning the advance knob only drags the film through the mechanism.     Force is then required to not just move the film, but overcome any accumulated friction too and it is the film that carries this load. The 35mm adaptor kit gives this camera added flexibility (is this feature unique amongst pinhole cameras?).     The kit comprises : replacement viewfinder film holder film rewind adapter frame counter window blanking shield take-up spool A little piece of tape is used to secure the film leader to the take-up spool.     Using the standard 120 film frame we can make use of the full height of 135 film including the sprocket holes. There is no limit to the length of the 135 film that we can use, but in this case the maximum length is limited by the width of the medium format aperture on the film frame. The resultant negative size is 42mm x 34mm. The sprocket holes will be in the negative area (see sample shots) but I think that adds character. It is a good idea to be mindful of the sprocket holes when composing a shot.     It would be a good idea to inform your photo lab that there may be odd frame sizes. You can request your film to be returned uncut, then cut it to strips as you prefer.     Only the brave would request a set of prints with their film, I am not sure what would be returned! The best way to obtain prints is to scan the film and prepare your prints yourself. You can then burn them to CD and pop them down to the local superstore. Pinhole photographs from Tesco's - how's that!     120 roll film is fitted in the right chamber and wound into the left. It is the opposite way round for 135 format film. Using a 36 exposure roll of film and the adaptor kit, 26 pictures are available in total.     When using 135 film, we cannot see how much film is advanced so this has to be estimated. This arrangement works best :- Begin with 3 turns. Frames 1-8, 1½ turns. Frames 9-16, 1¼ turns. Frames 17-26, 1 turn.     120 roll film offers many picture sizes so why use 6x4.5cm - the smallest format? The first reason is simply that it will result in the most compact camera dimensions. At the extreme we could have a camera designed to accept 6x17cm but how often in truth would we use that format? We would end up carrying a large camera around to accomodate the rare occasions we want the larger format.     Another reason is that I have found that my flatbed scanner with a 35mm film adapter can be easily adapted to scan the smaller medium format film size, despite the scanner not being designed to do this (Epson 2400 photo in standard trim).     Also, using this format means that we get 16 shots from a roll of film.     I have modified my scanner by making a new film holder. This allows me to scan 6x4.5cm negatives in my scanner which was only designed to accept 35mm negatives. The negative strip has to be turned through 90º but it all works quite nicely.     The resulting scan gives me an 18 million pixel image at the maximum resolution of 2400dpi. Click on a thumbnail for a high resolution, detail photograph.