"Juggler" and I have been cruising for ten years. Long enough to fool myself I am a competent sailor!

Juggler's Travels

(extracts)

"Wonder and shells go together"

(Swansea Bay, 2000)

"Juggler" is a Halcyon 23 sailing boat. Here are extracts from the narrative of her summer cruise from Bristol to west Wales and back. There are twenty-thousand words in ten sections in the complete version. To get the whole story with luscious photographs click here

The log was updated daily using a Psion series 5 handheld computer via infrared with an Ericsson SH888 mobile phone which has a modem.

One of the most enabling pieces of gear aboard is a GPS (Global Positioning System). Mine's a Garmin 45, it is strong and user friendly. I've used it since 1995, previous to this I used just a compass and charts for navigation.

Saturday 5th August, 0955 hrs.
A fresh westerly wind made for a challenging welcome to the Bristol Channel. The 20 mile distance across to Barry Harbour in south Wales seemed much bigger with the wind shoving me back towards Avonmouth. However the tide ran strongly westwards and with reefed main and foresail Juggler leant into the beat. Objects clattered around inside the cabin as I tacked into the eye of the wind and enjoyed the feeling of hard sailing. It got to the point at which the tide was turning against me. To remain where I was would result in being quickly swept back up to the sandbanks I'd just thrashed my way out of.

View out of Barry Harbour with the island of Flatholm visible
1507 BST Sunday 6th August.

Barry Harbour moored yards from the slip in perfect peace. I blubbered a little tear as I arrived; not of happiness or fear, but of the awesome tides, waves, rocks and the little boats in them. There are occasions when the chaos of wind, waves and tide form a concert, playing the boat like a cool jazz trio. Some waves rush forward but dive right under the keels, emerging from the other side with a swooosh, like a sturdy toddler with a tendency to rush between your legs when you're not expecting it! These waves seem to have no affect on the boat. Other, smaller waves appear within feet and explode, soaking the sails half way to the top. These ones get you right in the face, and neck and bottom and legs and feet!

"Sitting in-between fish soup and the gully air, the boat is constantly tripped into motion."

I may have a reactive approach to navigation but it's full time, like a constant computation of all possibilities to see which option will be sound and result in progress away from more danger and towards less danger, or, the safe completion of the passage.

"Sailing to... a shell"
I picked up a shell on the flat hard sand of Swansea beach. I was struck by the way Juggler had sailed to that shell. Shells and sand are characteristic and symbolic of far away places. My feeling and insight was of pleasure at reaching far away places again. I looked out at the wide sweep of Swansea Bay and the Mumbles, how did I get here? On my own! In a boat! Wonder and shells go together.
"Home in time for tea... one day"
(Ilfracombe Harbour, 2000)
I was heading for Tenby when I set out this morning at 1100 hrs BST. A Westerly wind was dead against me and the distance of 36 miles would have taken around 15 hours. After seeing a dolphin just off the Mixon Shoal near the Gower Peninsular, I realised it would be much easier to go to Ilfracombe. 25 miles and across rather than against the wind. It was then I felt the pleasure of cruising for its own sake, not struggling against the elements. An e-mail I received from my dear friend Amanda in Bristol, urged me to "drift, drink wine, relax" and "don't turn it into an endurance test".
"I'm hungry for a teacake... and a waitresses smile!"
(Ilfracombe, 2000)
The Oldenburg, a ferry running between Ilfracombe and Lundy Island, wallows slowly, gently, against the pier. Brown squeaking Herring Gull young are now displaced by holidaymakers around the edge of the harbour. Looking at life mediated by the seashore. I will put on a little foundation to cover my hardened features (of a life of leisure) and make my way to "my cafe'" now. I'm hungry for a teacake and a waitresses smile!
"Weaving a web of sailing and writing"
(Tenby, 2000)
I just wish everyone else wasn't so wrapped up in careers and families, that they could come and soak up some of the summer breeze and cliff-top gaze over the sea with me. I would like another pair of eyes to be anointed with this occasional bliss. I have reached my turning point, the apex of my journey. From here I can only head back Eastwards up the ever narrowing Bristol Channel. Here I'm closer to Rosslare in Ireland than Padstow in Cornwall (58 n miles and 67 n miles respectively). How exciting to sail over to Ireland. I have other plans, the Llamas reunion in Ilkley is at the end of the coming week, I have to get there and be in bass player mode.

To go off cruising to Ireland would be lovely, but it will soon be September and Juggler is a hibernating animal. To set off now would be to sail into a deteriorating series of weather patterns and ever shortening days. Oh, how depressing! It is my feeling, having reached this corner of the Bristol Channel, that I am on the edge of a new voyage. Today I saw the Islands of Skomer and Skokholm. Northwards is Fishguard and further on is Holy Island with Holyhead and the Skerries. In my pleasure at weaving this web of sailing and writing, I feel as if I would enjoy having a year out of university, in order to sail to Ireland and North to Scotland. Of course that would be more difficult than it seems at present. The autumn Breeze is less forgiving than the summer breeze and it is weather that sets the scene for the sailor.

"Happy people are those who forget the bad things; Sad people are those who remember the bad things!"

(Quote from Ty, Proprietor of Celtic Motor Spares (and Car & Van Hire), Hakin Bridge, Milford Haven. Tel: 01646695524).

It looks like I can head out of the marina tomorrow (Sunday), although I feel, psychologically, unwilling to leave Milford. My physical side will take me away from the security of the marina, to the fringe again, where Gannets wheel and Fulmars paddle, where Shearwater almost touch wing-tips on wave crests. And, where my heart is in my mouth, so it can have a better view!

"The wind moans at me as it passes "what are you still doing here?" as it rushes off to fill a hole up in the North"
(Carmarthen Bay, September 2000)
Thursday 7th September.
The weather forecast depresses me with gales in the North and rain here tomorrow. I am uneasy about heading to sea in the morning.I would rather be back in Bristol by now. I feel as if autumn has a grip already and I should not be hanging about in the Bristol Channel still. All it takes is a calm day with a touch of sunshine and I shall be on holiday again. For now I feel anxious and vulnerable to a deep low somewhere West of Scotland. The wind moans at me as it passes "what are you still doing here?" as it rushes off to fill a hole up in the North

This morning I went to the Spinning Wheel cafe', where I completely won over a small cat, having her dribbling over my hand in my lap. I engaged with the waitress on a less physical level, talking about her Law degree and her Bournemouth origins. I overheard two other snippets about her as I sat writing; She has a pierced belly button and her name is Claire. The next mission, today, is to eat something decent and keep cool.

A young brown Herring Gull arcs across the water, it's wing tip close to the wavelets like a Manx Shearwater. It rises on an eddy out of the harbour mouth, spooks a pigeon and lands delicately on a high wall. By this time of year these young ones are learning the skills which will enable them to meet the challenges of winter. They no longer squeak incessantly at their parents for food, acting as if they are still covered in down. Instead they peck at anything to see if it is edible. They posture against other birds, expressing the will to power over food sources, as any self respecting Herring gull must. The adults are strapping, big, grey and white birds. Their beaks are yellow with a red spot near the tip. The whiteness of their bellies is clean and bright, a wonder considering the time spent scrabbling for food in the water. Their cries are a constant refrain at the seaside,"Gulla, gulla, gulla, gulla, gulla". It drives the human inhabitants wild, many of whom see gulls as "rats of the air". I think they are beautiful, vivacious, survivors. They have clear, sharp eyes and can catch bread in mid air, like hawks can songbirds.

I admire Herring Gulls as vivacious survivors
Written narratives and images ©Clarissa Vincent 2000