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Extract
from local newspaper- VETERANS of a daring
special forces landing 200 miles behind enemy lines in Japanese-occupied Burma
have flown back exactly 60 years later. Members of the irregular Chindit group
- a forerunner of the modern SAS - flew in by glider on March 5, 1944.
The
group included Jack Lindo, 84, from Toxteth, who made his first return to
Burma yesterday since the end of the war, He said before he left: "I
want to see how it has changed because I was in Rangoon when the war ended.
"I saw the Japanese actually coming in to sign the surrender forms. They
came up with their swords by their sides and were told to unbuckle their swords,
two little fat men."
The group's mission was to establish a position, codenamed Broadway,which
was the first of allied bases in Japanese Burma. The operation is seen as
a landmark moment in World War II and helped prevent the Japanese advancing
on India.
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Jack's
Story
RETURN
TO BURMA FROM DINGLE
On
the 5th March 2004, I returned to Burma.
This was a particularly significant date, as it was on the 5th March 1944,
that the 1st Battalion of the Kings Regiment flew in to Burma in gliders
to a landing site in the area code-named "Broadway". This was
to start of the operation code-named "Longcloth". I never wanted
to see Burma again, as it held so many bad memories for me, but time has
a funny way of changing ones mind.
My return visit to Burma began at a Chindits Old Comrades reunion when fate
decreed that I sat next to a man who had recently returned from a visit
to Burma and who was also in a glider when we landed at "Broadway".
I was very intrigued and fascinated by his account of the trip and wanted
to hear more about his visit to the places in which we had operated.
After listening to him I decided there and then that "God Willing"
I would also make the return
"Pilgrimage". I was of course hopeful that there would be no health
problems. As by then I would be close to 85 years of age, and suffering
from Angina and Diabetes! Would they let me go?
I decided to take a chance and sent for the details of the next pilgrimage
to Burma. I disclosed my health details and was told that "they thought
that I was fit enough" then my Doctor had no objections and it would
be OK to travel, the dye was cast.
As the departure date drew near I became quite apprehensive. Why had I been
so foolish to take-on such a momentous journey? But the thought of losing
so much money if I were to cancel spurred me on. On the 5th of march 2004
I boarded the plane at Manchester airport for the flight to London.
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On
arrival at Heathrow I found my way to the "overseas" departure lounge
and immediately came into contact with our pilgrimage Doctor. Nick was to travel
with us (for obvious reasons) and I thought that it was a good sign that I had
found another member of the group so quickly. We were soon joined by the other
members of our travel group and a short service was held in the airport chapel
with prayers for a safe journey. Numerous photographers arrived and we were
treated like V.I.P's. A local school had sent some 6th form students to talk
to us about our experiences and we eventually boarded our aircraft for the non-stop
flight to Bangkok.
Bangkok.
After a flight of almost 11 hours we arrived at Bangkok, we were to collect
some other travelers before. our onward flight to Rangoon the following day.
Our overnight stay in Rangoon was at the most magnificent lnya Lake Hotel; a
hotel set in a "park like" setting.
We were transferred by coach to Rangoon airport and the journey was very nostalgic
for me, as the last time I had seen Rangoon airport the Japanese were flying
in to sign surrender documents fifty nine years ago.
If there was one thing that irritated me quite a lot, as I am sure it did other
members of the party, was the continual checking of passports. If my passport
was checked once, it was checked more than twenty times. We eventually boarded
another aircraft. making my tally of flights four to-date. Another hour of flight
and we landed at Mandalay, or so we thought, the city of Mandalay was another
ten miles away, so again we boarded a coach and drove through some dusty villages
with the interminable kids and dogs everywhere. |
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We were glad
to reach Mandalay, and made for the railway station.
Again we had to force our way through the masses of humanity to get to the
platform of the station. After a period of time the train finally arrived,
and we were shown to some individual
compartments.
Our party was not together on the train, we were separated about six per compartment.
A Meal of sorts was served-up, with "rice" an ingredient, which
was to haunt us for most if not all of the meals. Each compartment was independent
with a cook? Kitchen? Toilet?? Bunk beds and seating. The beds were seats
converted into some semblance of a bed and very uncomfortable. The cook also
made the beds and did the tidying-up?
We had boarded the train at 17.30 hrs and waited and waited for the train
to move off.... We
continued to wait for almost six hours, until the train finally started to
move just after 11.00. hrs. We rumbled through the night, "rumbling"
being quite a polite word for the movement of the train. At every station
there were always "hawkers" selling fruit, mostly bananas. Having
traveled on trains in India many years ago I did not expect a great deal of
comfort and was not disappointed. The journey was a nightmare, but after the
best part of two days we arrived at Myitkyna. It was here in Myitkyna that
I landed in a light aircraft after having been wounded. It was not an airfield,
but was intended to be so when the Americans had finished it. That piece of
partly leveled ground, with aircraft taking off on bombing raids and for supply
drops, is now the main road Every form of transport (mostly bicycles) now
use the latter day airfield.
Everywhere one looks there are bicycles- literally hundreds of them.
A service had been arranged in the cathedral, and I was given the great honour
of laying a wreath at the Alter on behalf of former comrades. I went to the
Alter made the sign of the cross and laid the wreath. I stood at the Alter,
remembering those men of the 1st Chindit operation many of whom on reaching
Myitkyina, were captured or killed.
I was later told that it was a very moving sight for the onlookers.
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After the church
service we walked down to the Irrawady River, so peaceful now, but was a "hell
hole" during the conflict, a place were many battles took place and so
many hundreds of men lost their lives. We left Myitkyina in the afternoon
and boarded the train to Moguang.
We pulled in to Moguang station which was again thronged with people, again
selling all manner of wares.
Moguang.
That name invokes a lot of memories for me, none of them very pleasant.
Moguang was the first town in Burma to be taken back from the Japanese, and
it was the Chindits who did it. It was however only after some very hard and
brutal fighting that this railway town was taken. I was wounded at Moguang
and evacuated out in the light aircraft I mentioned earlier. I remember that
I had to sit on a plank with my legs hanging over the pilot's shoulders, as
there was only room for two, one badly wounded on a stretcher and myself You
can probably imagine therefore what memories the town held for me. Some very
fierce fighting took place before the bridge leading to Moguang was taken.
The bridge was taken by Chindits of 77 brigade.
Our pilgrimage leader was aware of my involvement in the battle for Moguang
and asked me to lay a wreath on the bridge. I again (almost 60 years on) walked
onto that bridge, a bridge which remarkably has changed very little over the
intervening years, perhaps a lick of paint that was about all. The bridge
is called the "Pin Me" bridge. I laid the wreath on the ground with
the memories of all those who had died flooding back to me.
It was
a very very moving moment for me, as it must have been for all those watching.
We were all very silent for a while.
I particularly
recalled a very gallant and courageous officer Major Monteith who lost his
life on
that bridge, I can still hear his scream today, as he was shot in the back
by a Japanese sniper as he turned to call the Chindits on to the bridge.
So we left Moguang and those haunting memories, and boarded the train towards
Mawlu and the "White City" and "Blackpool" blocks. It
is said that the fighting at Mawlu and the hill approach to the Pagoda was
mediaeval in its ferocity. A Victoria Cross was awarded to a very gallant
officer who, although having one of his arms sliced off, carried on fighting
until he dropped- He died shortly after, but not before saying to Brigadier
"Mad" Mike Calvert "Did we do our stuff sir?"
The battle for Pagoda Hill will live long in the memories of Chindits.
So we moved on towards the "Blackpool" block (a jungle strong hold)
where again fierce fighting took place, a place which could not be held against
a superior Japanese attacking force. Upon reaching the locality of the Blackpool
block, we found that it was necessary to be taken to the actual site by Bullock
cart.
If you have never ridden on a cart pulled by bullocks, you will have no idea
of the misery and
discomfort this mode of transport can inflict The track was unmade and full
of craters, there was no proper seating, just hard boards with one's legs
out in front, I had bruises were I had never previously had bruises. Upon
reaching the site of the Blackpool block we carefully extracted our selves
from the cart and began to move around the area, which is now a quite baron
wasteland I was again asked to lay a wreath at the site. I stood reflecting
on those terrible times and said my own silent prayer. A great many of my
comrades and friends died here.
Another horrendous journey on those blasted bullock before we reached the
train which was to take us back to Mandalay. We
arrived early in Mandalay and were taken to a hotel for a much-needed wash
and brush-up and a meal of? yes of course rice!! And a sort of meat? We relaxed
for the rest of the day in preparation for our tour of the area the following
morning.
On the following morning we were taken by coach for a tour of Mandalay. The
tour included a trip to Mandaly Hill.
On the following day we boarded a coach which took us to Maymyo and climbed
a very dusty road to the "Hill Station" This was a place once used
by the Europeans as a place to visit on hot summer's days. We continued our
journey on towards Maymyo along some very steep and winding roads, we finally
reached the boarder with China and fully expected to go through the usual
boarder checks, but surprisingly after a chat between our driver and Chinese
officials, we were allowed to carry on to Maymyo.
On arrival we encountered the usual beggars asking for "Bakshesh"
(something for nothing) and although feeling very sorry for them, it is not
good policy to give them money, as one would be immediately surrounded by
a great many more.
We had a meal of sorts and then wandered around sightseeing and looking in
shops of this ancient town.
Quite unexpectedly a member of the party said he had just met an old Gurkha
soldier in a shop
close by. A few of us found the shop and met up with this old Gurkha warrior.
He was delighted to see us and we spoke with him asking where in Burma he
had served.
It was fascinating to listen to him and although difficult at times to understand,
it transpired that he had in fact fought with the Chindits and was at the
jungle stronghold code-named "White City". We promised to call back
the following day with a couple of our fellow Chindits.
We stayed the
night at a small hotel and the following day, as promised, we returned to
the shop which it transpired was owned by one of his sons. The old Gurkha
had donned his old uniform in readiness for our visit and was beaming as we
arrived. I gave him a Burma Star badge which I had in my jacket lapel, he
was delighted and we took some photographs of our little group of old warriors
with my new friend wearing his Burma Star badge. |
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That afternoon
we left Maymyo and headed back to Mandalay. We were given a meal before our
return journey to the airport and our flight to Rangoon. We landed at Rangoon
and returned to the wonderful Inya Lake Hotel. We had a few leisurely drinks
at the bar and a walk around the beautiful lake before our tour of old Rangoon
and a sunset visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda.
The tour of old Rangoon was very memorable. We stopped at a number of market
sites and the whole place was teeming with humanity, a very different site
from the last time I visited The war was still on and the populace was very
sparse.
I asked the coach driver if he knew where the railway offices where and he
said he would take us there. We arrived at those same railway offices (again
very little changed) and stopped for a closer look. I told the coach party
that this was where I was billeted the last time I was in Rangoon- These were
the actual offices where I was based when I heard that the war was over. What
a memory that conjured up.
We visited the former Governor's residence for drinks and a light buffet.
Later in the evening we set off for our visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda. This
was a most awe-inspiring visit. The Pagoda is quite magnificent with a domed
roof covered in Gold. The whole area is just like a small town with shops/market
stalls everywhere. Smaller pagodas surround the main building with people
worshipping everywhere. It is like a visit backwards in time, little seems
to have changed over a great many millennia.
Htaukkyan cemetery.
The following morning we boarded our coach for our trip to the Htaukkyan cemetery
and our service of remembrance. After the service we wandered around looking
at the graves of the men who had paid the full sacrifice in that war. I found
the graves of a lot of my former comrades and friends and finally found the
grave of my mate Johnny Deakin. Johnny the "cheeky one" who lived
only one hundred yards from where I lived in Liverpool. Now here we were back
together again. It was a very moving moment for me. I asked one of the party
to take a photograph of me standing at his grave in the hope that he would
send it on to me. I intend to forward it on to his relatives in Liverpool.
I am still hoping he remembers.
I also remembered being with a friend called Johnny Laidlaw, in Moguang and
those very last moments when he lost his life in battle. I remembered as we
attacked a village held by the Japanese, Johnny saying "I'll go this
way Jack", I remembered hearing his screams as he was hit by the full
burst from a machine gun.
It is strange, I felt so bad walking away from that graveyard. It is beautifully
kept and a credit to all those involved in its upkeep. So the pilgrimage came
to an end and the next day we were taken to the airport for our flight home
via Bangkok and subsequently on to Heathrow.
I was felling quite unwell on my arrival at London after a ten hour flight.
It later transpired that I had Bronchitis. I was saved from a significant
onward flight delay to Manchester, by two lovely ladies; Anna and Angie, Mother
and Daughter, they had also traveled back from a far-east pilgrimage (the
same flight as mine). They took me "under their wing" to get me
back to Manchester via an earlier flight.
They let
me use their mobile phone to let my Daughter Barbara and her husband Bob know
I would arrive at Manchester earlier than anticipated. I am so grateful for
their intervention with the airline company on my behalf. At Manchester airport
I said goodbye to my guardian angels and was taken home by Barbara and Bob
to their house.
To say that I was tired is to put it far too lightly and after a meal at Barbara
and Bob's I finally arrived home. Feeling tired I decided to "rest my
head" for an hour, this was about 4pm. I woke briefly at about 9.pm but
then slept through until about 0900 the next morning.
So here I am back home. I can hardly believe it after how grueling the experience
was, that I
survived it. I felt every day of my 85 years of age.
Afterwards.
On boarding the train after the visit to the Blackpool Block We traveled parallel
with a narrow
road virtually more than a track and I immediately recognised it as the road
we had attempted to cross all those years ago to get into the "Blackpool"
block It was on this very road that we of 82 column had been ambushed, at
least that is what we always assumed happened, it is also possible that we
were just unlucky to have bumped into a Jap column moving up to attack the
block I don't suppose we will ever know the truth of the situation.
As I gazed out of the train window I remembered that very black night when
all hell was let
loose. Ten platoon under Captain Freeman attempted to put in a bayonet charge,
but the night was so black, it was impossible to tell friend from foe. The
mules were running around and I was knocked flying to the ground, I picked
myself up and found myself completely alone. Everything was complete chaos.
We were told before setting off to cross the road that if we encountered any
problems, we were to make our way back to the last stopping place.
This talk proved
quite prophetic, so I decided to do just that and began to make my way back
down the road I stopped for a while to gather my thoughts, when I heard footsteps
approaching. It proved to be another member of the platoon, doing the same
as myself. Others soon joined us and we eventually made our way back to join
77 brigade who were preparing to attack and capture the town of Moguang. What
strange feelings came over me as I watched that road disappear behind the
train. I seemed to take it all in my stride at 20 years of age, but I shivered
now at the thought of what could have happened. The Japanese at that time
were not taking prisoners and some of our column who were captured that night
were immediately bayoneted. These executions were witnessed by others from
the column, from their jungle hiding places.
That infamous road and that terrible place were now behind me in more ways
than one.
All of these memories are so vivid in my mind, even after some 60 years.
The chaos that "ambush?" caused will live with me forever. One minute
it is a still and quiet night, then "bedlam".
I wish I were able to thank a loyal Burmese villager for saving my life that
night.
He found me, hid me out in his humble home, gave me food and rest for the
night and at great risk to himself and his family. The next morning he guided
me back to where the rest of column had gathered. I was grateful and said
so, but again, how we accept these things and then just carry on. It is only
now that I appreciate the enormity of that gesture and my certain fate had
I been captured.
Yes; that was the self-same road all right and how lucky I was to
have been able to return to see it.
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