There are a considerable number of ways of hatching and rearing Japanese
bantams. Some fanciers depend entirely on nature, some part artificial, and some
rely entirely on incubation by machine. With the breed being so fickle it may
take time for before the individual finds the method that is a success.
Method 1 - Natural
This method is probably the least trouble; mother nature takes care of
everything. Once the birds have been paired, a nest bow is introduced. Usually
it is one bird to one compartment. Most Japanese hens lay 7 to 9 eggs and then
go broody. When fully broody, remove the hen and the eggs and spray or dust the
nest litter (a sitting hen is easy prey for lice and mites). Place the eggs back
in the nest and the hen in the coop. Do not try to force the hen back on the
eggs; after 10 to 15 minutes if the hen is fully broody she should return to the
eggs herself. Having made a note of the day the hen sat fully, 20-21 days later
the chicks should emerge. In most cases the hen will leave the eggs to drink,
feed and relieve herself, therefore the nest remains clean.
Advantages
of natural method:-
* No fear of powercuts.
*
Good system for keeping records.
* No need for artificial heating when
rearing.
* Some say that chicks are more robust when reared by broodies.
Disadvantages
of natural method:-
* Fewer chicks reared annually.
* Hen could
leave eggs.
* When chicks are hatched they might be attacked or not kept warm
by the hen.
* Hen sitting too tightly on eggs, therefore soiling them.
If
the hen is motherly and reliable (Jap hens usually are), good results are
assured and such birds are acquired by selection of your stock birds which show
these traits. The fancier who uses this method has the added challenge of not
only trying to breed good quality birds but also of selecting the bird which is
going to be a good mother and go broody.
Method 2
- Part nature, part artificial means.
This consists of sitting
the eggs by broody and rearing by artificial means. The trick to using broodies
is to ensure that they come into lay well before your stock birds start laying -
so a good diet and, probably, the use of lights (to extend the daytime) is
necessary. Remember the hen has to lay before it will go broody.
Nest boxes
are placed in each compartment and nature takes its course as outlined in the
previous method. When the chicks are hatched, and as soon as they become dry,
they are removed from the hen and placed in a home-made/purchased brooder under
artificial heat. Make sure the chicks are comfortable when put in the brooder.
If the chicks huddle around the heat source they are too cold; if huddled in a
corner and gasping, they are too hot. Long legged chicks are culled, the
remainder are rung with either the smallest poultry ring or, if these prove too
big, budgie rings can be used. A number of coloured rings are kept in stock, so
different broodies have different coloured rings.
A careful watch must be kept
on chicks that have been rung. Chicks grow quickly so change them as they grow
until the final closed ring is fitted. Special attention must be paid to those
fitted with budgie rings - these rings are easier to fit than remove. Coloured
marker pens can be used on newborns instead but these rub off quickly.
Advantages
of part nature, part artificial means:-
* Constant heat.
*
Control of food given
* Large batches can be reared at the same time.
Disadvantages
of part nature, part artificial means:-
* Viruses can develop -
high mortality.
* Power failure or bulb failure.
* More attention required
than with broody.
* Initial problem of constructing/purchasing brooder.
*
Experience of running a brooder.
Method 3 -
Hatching by incubator
This method is favoured by many Jap
fanciers. There are many incubators on the market, so the new fancier should
seek advice from the experienced people who already have incubators. If the
wrong machine is purchased it could prove a costly mistake.
Careful
reading of the instructions is vital. The next step is to find a suitable
position for the machine. This may be in the house, garage or outhouse, but
there must be a fairly consistent temperature in the room. Low night time and
high day time temperatures are not suitable.
Advantages
of hatching by incubator:-
If a self-turning machine is used (this
is preferable), other than checking at 6 days for fertility, it can be left
alone until a day before hatching, when it is advised to stop the turning
mechanism. This is the time to sort the eggs into batches of the same breeding
combinations - one method is to introduce compartments or small net bags so,
when hatching commences, different combinations can be kept together, or just be
satisfied and let the chicks hatch.
Disadvantages of
hatching by incubator:-
* Power cuts.
* Correct humidity
required.
* Correct temperature required.
If a non-automatic incubator is
used the eggs have to be turned at least twice a day by hand. This is time
consuming but, for results, must be completed to achieve the goal of hatching
chicks - in fact it is recommended that for the first week, three times a day is
the accepted norm. To make the procedure more simple the eggs are marked with
some kind of identification or, if the eggs have been previously marked for
identification, this should serve the purpose. When hand-turning the eggs they
should be rolled one complete turn one way, then the next time, a complete turn
the other way.
If a new machine has been acquired lots of patience may be
required before success is gained.
Conclusion
Japanese
bantams are a fickle breed to hatch. They present a real challenge to the true
fancier. To succeed, patience is the key. Somewhere in the outlined methods is a
method to suit you and, by being patient and dedicated, success should be
gained.