Sandwood Bay

On the far northwest coast of Scotland lies this magical place, arguably the most beautiful bay in the world. The best approach of all is to walk above the cliffs all the way from Cape Wrath, the most northwesterly point of the Scottish mainland. The distance as the seagull flies is about 10 kilometres but with the ins and outs and ups and downs of this rugged coastline it is quite a tough day's walking. A far easier approach is from Blairmore to the south where John Muir Trust, who now own a large part of this area, have built a small carpark and pleasingly banned vehicles from the rough track to Loch na Gainimh. Beyond this loch the track deteriorates and in places is in a dreadful state of bog and erosion.

We have visited several times but this time added the ascent of the easy hill Druim na Buainn which overlooks the bay on the south. Its northern slopes give a magnificent [panorama] of the bay with Sandwood Loch behind it. The coastline northwards is foreshortened from here but the very white lighthouse at Cape Wrath could just be seen peeping over the most distant headland [picture 1].

We wandered down to the beach and walked along it northwards until the sea stack Am Buachaille appeared [picture 2]. This lonely sentinel gives the finishing touch to the beauty of this sand and sea scape. A strong west wind was hurling breakers onto the rocky tidal islet halfway along the bay [picture 3]. The special atmosphere of this place is hard to put into words but it has captivated me on every visit. Though many people come here there is a spaciousness which makes it seem always vast and empty [picture 4].

The whole of this northwestern corner of Scotland is a favourite place for us. The last picture was taken in intense evening sunshine as we drove away from Sandwood Bay and saw two of my favourite hills, Foinaven and Arkle, ahead [picture 5].

We visited again on 31st May 2003 after watching the annular solar eclipse at sunrise. The track has been much improved with the boggiest bits now walker friendly. The day was sunny and still but very hazy with the surrounding hills reflected faintly in the inland pool behind the bay [picture 6]. As we climbed northwards above the bay, heading for one of these hills, Beinn Dearg, we enjoyed the classic view across the dunes to Am Buachaille [picture 7] and envied the occupants of a beautiful camping spot [picture 8]. Once again I took a [panorama] this one looking south across the bay.

Please click on a picture to see a full sized version.

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