How to Bond Groups of Bunnies
Rabbits
are social animals and love to have company, especially if they live outdoors in
a large hutch.
Having one or more companions provides stimulation, and helps prevent boredom and it is very rewarding for you to watch your bunnies interact, snuggle up together, groom each other and generally play together. Bunnies living in pairs or small groups appear much happier than those housed singly - as a general rule.
If you are about to adopt a young bunny now, please consider adopting not just one but 2 or even 3 since this is the easiest way to ensure they'll all get along together. Introducing bunnies at a later date can involve having to go through a process of bonding them together - although this is not always the case and much depends on the individual bunnies themselves and the way they've been reared and handled.
If you are uncertain about adopting more than one bunny at the moment but think you might like more in the future, then we strongly recommend you adopt a boy first as it is usually very easy to introduce a girl later (once he's had 'the snip'!).
Please also refer to the male-vs-female page for further information.
Having a group of rabbits:
The ideal scenario would be to adopt 2-3 littermates which will ensure you are already buying a 'bonded' couple/group. If this is not possible, then you can usually simply introduce youngsters of the same/similar age from the same breeder, at the same time. By adopting from the same breeder, you are less likely to take infection risks, as you can when adopting from different breeders/centres. Every bunny will be carrying certain bacteria but when bunnies from different breeders meet, each will probably be carrying different bacteria which increases the risk of potential infection since baby rabbits can have quite immature immune systems.
If you already have one bunny and would like to find
him/her a companion, then the success or otherwise of this can be determined by
a number of factors:
 | What is the age of your present bunny? It is usually extremely easy to introduce youngsters before they reach puberty. After puberty, bunnies can be more territorial and aggressive towards the arrival of a new bunny. However, this varies greatly between different rabbits. |
| Is your present bunny male or female? It is nearly always easier to introduce a girl to a boy than the other way around. |
Females (ie adult females) tend to be much more territorial and might not welcome a new bunny sharing their space - although some love to have a hutch-mate and will give a new arrival a quick sniff then return to her food bowl.
If your present bunny is a boy, then he will probably welcome the arrival of a pretty girl-friend with open paws and obvious delight.
Introducing two adult males is asking for trouble as they will almost certainly fight. The only way 2 adult males can usually live together is to have them both castrated. However, 2 littermates or males introduced as youngsters who are then never separated, can live happily together - but castration might be required in the future should any fighting occur.
| Is your present bunny neutered? If you have a boy, then it is essential that he is castrated to prevent unplanned pregnancy. A boy can mature as early as 10 weeks so it is vital you keep a close watch on his genital area and as soon as his testicles descend, it is time to book his appointment with the vet (who will usually give him a free check to confirm he's ready for his 'snip' prior to booking his surgery). |
If you have an adult male, rather than a 'pubescent' adolescent, then you will need to wait about 4 weeks following castration before introducing a girl-friend. Adult males can still be fertile for several weeks after their op so precautions must be taken.
Spaying females is less essential (from a bonding perspective) and many adult females will happily accept a new female friend. To introduce them, please follow the tips below.
| What is your present bunny's temperament? Try to find a bunny with a temperament which will complement - ie don't put two aggressive bunnies together but aim to have one who is more dominant than the other. This might read as unfair but, in practice, one bunny is often more dominant than the other - just like in the natural Rabbit Kingdom in the wild. |
| Have you had a recent bunny-bereavement? If your bunny was used to having a companion around and he/she dies, then the surviving bunny can pine quite markedly. In a worst-case scenario, the pining and stress of this can be so severe that he/she will stop eating and this can lead to gastric stasis setting in - and this can be a potentially fatal condition in itself. We advise following the tips on this site but vet attention will probably be required. |
In a more 'normal' case, your surviving bunny will just look thoroughly miserable and dejected. Please observe him/her closely to ensure he/she doesn't succumb to any infections which his/her late-companion might have suffered from and give lots of extra fuss, favourite foods, treats and favourite toys etc as a distraction. Usually, the pining will start to decline after about a week or so - but your bunny will probably be very receptive to having a new friend.
If your bunny died due to an infection, please ensure your own bunny isn't at risk or showing any symptoms - prior to introducing a new friend.
Introducing a New Bunny
To introduce a new bunny, we recommend the following steps:
| With your new bunny watching, snuggle your present bunny on your knee then put him/her down to watch while you then snuggle your new bunny. |
| Now snuggle both bunnies together on your knee and offer lots of nose-rubs and shoulder massages - whatever seems most popular and appreciated. |
| Sometimes, the two bunnies will bond in this way and stretch out together to enjoy more fuss. |
If not:-
| Please find a neutral area which your present bunny/ies have never been in - such as an area of your garden, a garage, garden shed, bathroom, the bath, the back of your car .... anywhere which is unfamiliar and won't carry the scent of either bunny. |
| Now, follow the snuggling-routine as above. |
| Next, pop both bunnies down on the ground/floor together and watch. They will probably sniff at each other and your present bunny might lunge at the new arrival. If so, push his/her nose to the ground/floor in a submissive posture and fuss both of them together. If your present bunny is a boy, he will probably mount a girl - this is normal, so just leave him (assuming he has been castrated and isn't actually penetrating her or she isn't becoming distressed). |
| Let them explore together. A little chasing is normal as they establish who is to be the dominant partner/pal. Let them do this or even pull a little fur. If there is fighting with biting, separate them immediately and try again later. Spraying the mis-behaving bunny lightly with a water bottle can help. |
| Once they're getting on together in the 'neutral area', offer a little more space and more snuggles together. |
| Then, pop them together in their new home. This must have been thoroughly cleaned to remove as many traces of its previous occupant's scent and so smell as neutral as possible. Try to alter its position in the home or garden so that it becomes a 'new' cage/hutch/bed and its former occupant will be distracted a little by exploring his/her new surroundings. |
Bonding can take patience with some rabbits but is always worthwhile and it's very rewarding and enjoyable to watch your bunnies snuggle contentedly together.
Often, the bonding is 'instant' and it isn't actually necessary to follow the tips given above - and your bunny will be much happier to have some bunny-company.
They can now live happily together (remember to neuter, if necessary, of course!), share food bowls, bottles, litter tray, housing and bedding.
