|
Despite all the scare stories I heard over my travels, I took the bus from Maracaibo to Maicao and then immediately to Santa Marta. This particular area is ELN controlled so I ensured daytime travel leaving Maracaibo on the 6:00am bus. I found it no more dangerous than its neighbours and speaking to hostel staff there seem to be no reports of kid knappings of tourists. My rule to avoid guerrillas was to travel in the day only and speak to people about the hot-spots, of course there are no guarantees as the guerrillas change their location and tactics all the time. That said, I found the Colombians very friendly.
Santa Marta, like most south american coastal towns doesn't feel too safe but it has so much to offer - the 5800m Sierra Navada, Tayrona Cuidad Perdida, Cienaga de Santa Marta and saline lagoons. I spent a few days on the coastal PN Tayrona, a stretch of secluded palm filled coves, empty sandy beaches and forested walks with a smaller Cuidad Perdida to visit, accomodation is available in hammock shelters and not a town or road in site, thoroughly recommended.
It is six hours to Cartegena, a city that the Colombians are proud of, easy to see why as the old walled centre is packed with colonial architecture, museums, bars and restaurants. I enjoyed a massage in the warm mud pool of nearby Volcan de Tolmula, a weird experience.
Heading south towards Medellin involves climbing up onto the central sierra mountains and through some farming towns with spectacular panoramas such as Yarumal and Santa Barbara, worth a stay. Locals here seem to have endless time on their hands as they chat, drink and play poker in the main square cafes parking their horses outside.
Further south I relaxed in what was my favourite village on the whole trip, Salento. Here time stands still - cowboy hats, colonial buildings, horses, simple stores and great bars. I shot pool in a wooden bar that hasn't changed since 1930, playing an old selection of Colombian country vinyl and serving coffee from a 1950 Torino capuccino machine.
From here it is possible to visit Valle de Cocora, a beautiful farming valley with the huge national tree of Palma de Cera dotted throughout. There are marked trails heading into the cloud forest of PN Los Nevados and higher into the snow and paramo landscape, good scenery but the weather can be bad. Farms offer accommodation and food although a tent provides greater flexibility.
Close-by Armenia was badly effected by the 1999 earthquake and really does not offer much for tourism although I found the time to play the national sport of bingo, really popular with all sorts of people and I can see why with a 90 million peso jackpot at stake. There are many colonial style coffee fincas (farms) around this area which offer quality accommodation, some with a pool. The area of Pueblo Tapao is good for this and offers what a local described as the "Disney World" Parque Nacional de Café.
Finally, my last destination in South America, Bogotá. My first impressions of the city were bad, ugly buildings and lots of street people who perpetually ask for money. Although many travellers seem to spend weeks living here and after a while you can see why - good clubs, friendly people (even those on the street), flea market, good shopping, old colonial centre, cool climate, it sort of grows on you. The Gold Museum is a must see here and if you are into drugs, well just about everyone has them.
|
|
