ChileanLakes


	After spending a month in remote Patagonia, civilisation comes as a bit of a shock here. Puerto Montt is a busy town with an interesting fishing harbour and market, Angelmó, here try curanto (a mixed seafood dish) or a bowl of sea urchins. Puerto Montt is a good transport hub - access to the island of Chiloé with its fishing villages on stilts, south down the wild carratera Austral, various boat trips south to coastal areas and the Glaciar San Rafael. Andina del Sud provides direct transport to Bariloche in the Argentinian Lake District combining several spectacular lake and bus routes. From Puerto Montt I headed to Lago Todo Los Santos where poor weather conditions, poorly marked trails and a $40 boat taxi fee prevented me from trekking. Instead I headed to PN Puyehue. Starting at the south entrance I headed through a farm and up the exhausting loose pumice soil of Volcan Puyehue. Deciding to camp at the foot of the summit, I was rewarded with fantastic sunset views although it is important to note the route well as the featureless face makes getting lost in cloud or darkness easy. Besides the volcano, PN Puyehue offers a very interesting volanic plateau consisting of pumice rock dunes, guysers and natural thermal baths, I even came face to face with a mountain cat. I found this area often buried in cloud and route finding was again difficult, however with no settlements and few trekkers, this was a unique and rewarding experience. Next stop Pucón, a real ski resort style place with chalet style buildings and oozing with travellers, adventure activity and nothing but it seems. Here I booked a one day climb to the active summit of Volcan Villarica with crampons and gas mask included. A narrow cone drops 500m into a glowing centre which every 15 minutes blows gas with an impressive roar, the views are fantastic too. Having travelled two months without meeting indigenous people, at last in the busy town of Temuco I meet some mapuche indians. Temuco was the last stronghold for the mapuche until 1881. The large market is the focus of activity here where mapuche bring produce in from their small farms, so called campos, although no traditional dress to be found. From Temuco I explored the tranquil Isla Huapi on the Pacific coast, a mapuche reserve and farming area where I stayed on a farm and enjoyed local food including bread made in the ashes of a fire, bring a tent to stay here though. Nearby Puerto Saavedro is a good example of why to avoid coastal towns in Chile! Nearby Carahue is typical of inland farming towns with wooden buildings, ox drawn carts and tractors in the main square. From the peaceful town of Curacautin in the logging zone of Chile further north, I explored PN Conguillío where the active Volcan Llaima is found, Laguna Conguillío and impressive araucaria forests. Here the Sierra Nevada trek provides good views of these and the surrounding mountains. Transport to this park is difficult, I hitched all the way in. Onto Santiago stopping at various towns which are focused on the central carretera.


	Seafood Store, Puerto Montt, Chile This is for you if you like smoked mussels (hanging red) and smoked kelp (hanging left). Nearby Angelmó offers some interesting seafood.


	PN Alerce Andino, Chile Typical of the dense forests found in the Lake District, this park contains the Alerce tree which can grow 4m in diametre and last for 7000 years. A relatively young alerce cluster is 3 hours walk from the ranger's office, however going was extremely muddy and to see older trees a overnight camp may be necessary.


	Sunset, PN Puyehue, Chile A very demanding ascent over loose pumice soil to the summit of Volcan Puyehue (2116m) provides a spectacular sunset over the pacific with great views of the many volcanic peaks in this region. Camping is possible around the volcano but water is scarce.


	Geyser, PN Puyehue, Chile The fascinating pumice dunes of the Puyehue plateau is a unique experience. Fumaroles are dotted around and there is a great camp spot next to a thermal spring, dug out for bathing. Only a few other people here in March.


	Volcan Villarrica, Chile. Ice axe and crampons are needed for the ascent up this 2840m volcano. It is a long and featureless climb however the views in every direction from the summit are worth it as is the impressive roar of gases from deep down the active cone.


	Market, Temuco, Chile This large market town is the focal point for what remains of the Mapuche indians that once dominated this region until as recently as 1880. A worthwhile stopping point en route to Santiago.


	Granary, Carahue, Chile Off the beaten traveller's track, some interesting farming towns can be found. Life here has an easy pace as tractors and cows drawn carts pass through the main square. People are relaxed and speaking spanish is essential.


	Isla Huapi, Chile This beautiful hilly area is home to mapuche farmers who travel around farming vehicles. Traditional straw ruca homes are disappearing fast and being replaced with corrugated buildings. Traditional mapuche dress is also disappearing. The best way of passing time here is to stay at one of the campsites, run by mapuche families.


	General Store, Puerto Domínguez, Chile Typical of the wooden buildings in this region. This village harbours the waterway around Isla Huapi and an infrequent ferry shuttles locals with their produce to and from the islands. People here tend to be quiet, slightly suspicious and don't bother travellers.


	PN Conguillío, Chile Popular for its famous tree, the araucanía. This park offers wonderful lakes, great forests trails, good camping and the challenging Sierra Nevada trek offering stunning views of surrounding valleys and volcanoes. The active Volcán Llaima can be climbed, a guide is necessary and a hard hat for falling rocks.


	Cobbler, Victoria, Chile Some things never change, let's hope it stays that way. A modern town on the main road to Santiago with friendly people.


	Collipulli, Chile These working class farming towns contrast sharply to the wealthier logging/ranching towns on the east side of Chile, a lot of character but people keep themselves to themselves.


	National Rodeo Finals, Rancagua, Chile This colourful event is where the wealthier side of Chilean society adorn their jeans or white ranching outfits. Points are accumulated by controlling cattle to scoring sacks where they are buffeted, very impressive horsemanship but this event is not for animal lovers.


	Santiago, Chile A friendly city in a pleasant climate. My highlight was morning coffee served in a bar by Anna, a g-string glad topless waitress who gave me a peck on the cheek when handing me the morning papers.