Patagonia


	From Ushuaia, a direct bus service via ferry took me to Punta Arenas, in Chile. A pleasent city where Austral, the southern-most beer in the world is brewed. From here, a four hour drive north took me onto the smaller town of Puerto Natales, located on a bay and filled with more interesting corrugated iron buildings. This area sits between the Chilean fjords to the west, the desolate Steppe hills to the east and the biggest ice-field outside the poles to the north - the 300x100km Hielo Sur. It is from this ice field that receding glaciers have left incredible peaked ranges such as Torres del Paine in Chile and Los Glaciares in Argentina making for some of the most spectacular walking in the world. Climatic features include weird alien cloud formations coupled with the famous ferocious Patagonian winds which will destroy any sub-standard tent. My first trek was PN Torres del Paine, a further 150km north and at the southern end of Hielo Sur. Here a six day circuit is available providing varied scenery, however I chose to do the equally popular "W" route starting at the Torres del Paine valley, then Valle Frances and finally the valley with Lago and Glaciar Grey. The 18km long Glacier Grey flows from Hielo Sur through mountains and finally breaking into a turquoise lake where broken ice blocks float and gather at the other end. Walking and camping above this glacier provides great views and incredible sounds as flow causes the glacier to creek, however the weather blowing off Hielo Sur is unpredictable and can be severe. At campamento Lago Grey, guided glacier trekking is available at $50 - depending on conditions! After six days in the park, I returned to Puerto Natales and then onto El Calafate in Argentina passing through interesting steppe landscape spotting guanacos, foxes and condors en route. Arriving in El Calafate, I was reminded how expensive Argentina is, around 50% more than Chile. El Calafate provides the base for excursions to the undoubtedly most beautiful glacier - Moreno. Unfortunately it is also one of the most visited sites in Argentina and it may be worth considering staying at the nearby campsite although transport is difficult to arrange. From El Calafate I headed to El Chalten, the gateway to PN Los Glaciares and the Fitzroy range. As per Torres del Paine, this range is created by the receding Hielo Sur but sits at its northern side. Another "W" route is on offer here, starting at Valle Cerro Torre, then Fitzroy and finally Valle Electrico. Spectacular peaks are the real features here and not so much of the glacier lakes. Cloud obscures the peaks much of the time, however some free pristine campsites with good views provide ample time to see them. From Fitzroy, I headed back to Puerto Natales and caught the weekly ferry service to Puerto Montt (Navimag, tel Santiago 2-2035030), this 4 day trip passes narrow fjords, archipelago and the rolling Pacific and was a real highlight. My shared upper deck cabin ticket cost $320, however $200 economy tickets were available for large shared dorms in the hull with no windows - I believe these can only be purchased within Chile.


	Farmland, PN Los Glaciares, Argentina The drive from El Calafate to Glaciar Moreno passes through huge remote haciendas.


	Glacair Moreno, PN Los Glaciares, Argentina This spectacular glacier moves at 2m/day at its centre and sits 300m deep in the lake with a 100m high face that breaks up every 15 mins or so. Unfortunately this is a real tourist attraction and therefore best visited at sunrise/set, camping is available (look carefully for people in the foreground of this picture).


	Patagonian Steppes, Argentina Route 40 to Lago Viedma passes great sand swept hills where dramatic clouds and sunsets make this area unique in south america. Here spot guanacos, birds of prey, foxes, rheas, armadillos. Well worth having your own transport.


	Glaciar Grande, PN Los Glaciares, Argentina This is an example of the many glaciers that sweep off the huge Hielo Sur ice-field and run into lakes.


	Cerro Torre (3102m) , PN Los Glaciares, Argentina My favourite peak in south america. This photo was taken not far from a beautiful clean campsite, typical of the Fitz Roy area (and free!).


	Fitz Roy range, PN Los Glaciares, Argentina Fitz Roy (3441m) is one of those famous rocks that is an ultimate challenge for climbers. This peak spends most of its time in cloud, however an early start for the hour climb to the lookout provides clear views and stunning sunrise.


	Puerto Natales, Chile Can't help but feel at the end of the world in this peaceful town. Travellers use this as a base to explore southern Patagonia with direct links to PN Torres del Paine, Calafate and Punta Arenas.


	Los Torres, PN Torres del Paine, Chile Most walkers do a day trip to this lookout, however camping at Campamento Torres it is possible to follow the route markers at night with a keen eye and good torch. It is an hour's walk - worth the sunrise and avoiding the crowds.


	Valle Francés, PN Torres del Paine, Chile You are unlikely to see this if you do the 100km circuit. Instead this is the centre of the "W" route, passing the vertical Glaciar Francés and reaching a great panorama of bare peaks at the top of the valley.


	Ñirre trees, PN Torres del Paine, Chile Patagonia is famous for its ferocious winds as these tortured trees show. One night square dome tents were flattened as ill prepared walkers screamed for help!


	Glaciar Serrano, PN Bernado O'Higgins, Chile Don't be fooled here, this expensive tourist trip by catamaran to this glacier is beautiful but after hours of putting on the gear for the group there is no time on the glacier. Try instead the guides at Glaciar Grey or better still from El Chalten in Fitzroy for some serious training.


	Navimag Ferry, Fjords, Chile This weekly 3 day cargo ferry trip has become very popular with travellers and it is easy to see why. Passing calm fjords, narrow waterways and then onto the tumbling pacific where it is possible to spot whales and dolphins. Talks, disco and ship tours are offered on board. Some complained of cockroaches in their cabin.


	Navimag Ferry, Fjords, Chile Mist sits silent over these soft waters. The hollow drum of the vessel draws us slowly through this strange corner of our planet.