Arequipa is clean city built from volcanic rock and still remains at some altitude.  Not as much a tourist centre as Cusco, it still has some attractions such as the Santa Catalina monastery and various museums.

From Arequipa it was good to arrive at the pacific coast.  Here moisture from the Pacific blows over and condenses above the Andes, creating desert conditions for much of the coastline.   Because of this the amazing pre Inca Nasca Lines have been preserved for over a thousand of years.  The sandy soil has a shallow brown layer and this has been cleared to produce a complex web of long straight lines linked to large symbolic animals, some up to 300m in size.  To appreciate these, flights over the Lines can be arranged from Nasca. 

There are many theories about the Lines, one is that because the civilisation was so dependent water which flowed from the Andes, the mountain peaks were considered sacred and these lines linked the peaks to central points of worship and sacrifice, the animal symbols having links to water also. 

Around Nasca it is also possible to visit an ancient cemetery with open graves and pre colombian mummies sitting with their possessions (bit like visiting the in-laws). 

In case penguins and seals were missed further south, they can be photographed around the craggy Ballestas Islands off Paracas along with many other birds and Peruvian tourists in boats, I saw more birds here than the nearby desolate Paracas reserve. 

Passing through Lima, which seems a lot safer now that they have an armed guard on every block, my next stop was Huancacho.  This quiet and pleasant tourist town springs to life early in the morning when at 6:00am the fishermen launch their reed canoes into the breaking surf.  From here it is possible to visit what was the biggest pyramid in the Americas before El Nino, Huaca de Sol of the Moche culture, constructed from 143 million bricks. 

Nearby there is also Huaca de la Luna where ongoing excavations reveal tombs, murals and sacrificial sites, it is believed that they slashed the limbs and penis of their enemies and used them for sacrifice, leaving their bodies to bleach in the sun for 20 years.  In the area is the largest adobe city in the world, Chan Chan consisting of 9 citadels enclosed by 14m high walls, housing the advanced Chimu culture. 

From here I headed into Ecuador for a month only to return to explore the Cordillera Huayhuash/Blanca from Huaraz.  There are countless treks in the Cordillera Blanca centred around Huaraz and the 6768m Peruvian peak Huascaran (the highest in the Americas is Aconcagua in Argentina 6959m).  For those with more time on their hands, Cordillera Huayhuash offers beautiful trekking having been released from the dangers of the guerrillas.

Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru
The monastery like Arequipa is built from volcanic rock around the 16th century.  Guided tours are available with many rooms untouched for a hundred years.  Arequipa is a busy and clean town - a good place to try Cuyi, roasted Guinea Pig.

Coastal Desert, Peru
Virtually the entire coastline is a sandy waste.  Here wind patterns have created strange horse-shoe sand dunes.

Puerto Inca, Peru
This ancient Inca port is now an archaeological site which is not worth going out of the way for.  The beach here is good with a solitary hotel/restaurant to pass the time.  Fascinating nearby rock formations is typical of this area.

Burial Site, Nasca, Peru
Treasure hunters uncovered burial tombs.  What's been left has been salvaged and put on display by the authorities.  This is one of around 10 tombs at this site.

Nasca Lines, Peru
30 minute flights over the lines in a Cesna cost around $40.  There are many giant symbols, here is a hummingbird around 300m long.  One theory believes all the symbols related to water and the huge straight lines point to mountain peaks, at their intersection worship/sacrifice would be performed to gods for rain.

Lima, Peru
The modern part of the city sits close to the cliffs.

Chan Chan Walls, Peru
The ancient Chimu culture were great architects creating huge walled cities.

Huancacho, Peru
Bowed reed rafts are used by the fisherman to tackle the breaking waves.

La Union, Peru
The route over the moutains and into the Amazon passes remote farming communities, it was two weeks from here to Iquitos in the Amazon and I did not meet a single traveller.

Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
This remote range has recently been freed from the guerrillas and now is safe for trekking.  The tough 11 day circuit, mostly at altitudes of 4000-4500m, can be shortened to 7 days.  A very remote and beautiful area.

Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
Different species of cacti can be found including this cotton wool style cactus.