Location	Boot, Eskdale
Those Present	Myself
Dates	September 17th to September 21st

There wasn't going to be a November trip this year, so I decided to find myself a cottage in Eskdale for a week in September. The last time I was there was in 1991, and it's probably my favourite part of the Lake District. After many hours of fruitless surfing, I eventually found the Dalesman magazine site, which had some promising accomodation. I finally booked a cottage in Boot, and was surprised to find that the owner (a local farmer)and his wife remembered my aunt and uncle who lived there over 40 years ago.

Sunday September 17th

September was the time of the great fuel crisis; I nursed the car to and from work for over a week and managed to save enough petrol to probably get me as far as Manchester. Not my idea of a holiday location! Finally fuel started to get through again, but it wasn't until the evening of Saturday 16th that I managed to fill up, so I went a day late. It started to rain as soon as I left the motorway, and the journey along the coast road was interminable and miserable. I eventually arrived in Boot and found the cottage. As the owner had promised, it was 'comfortable but basic'. It had a solid fuel fire and armchairs, but no television or secondary heating. Still, it was perfectly situated just across the road from the Burnmoor Inn, next door to the Post Office and on the track to Eel Tarn. That night I tried a pint of Jennings, but it wasn't marvellous so I switched to the Black Sheep which proved to be excellent all week. The menu wasn't extensive, but was varied enough to be interesting, and I choose the roast pork with trimmings - obviously left over from the lunchtime but tasty and filling.

Monday September 18th - Burnmoor, Miterdale, Eskdale Green, Boot

Monday morning was grey and overcast. I crossed the bridge over Whillan Beck and intially took the Burnmoor track before turning left uphill to reach the old peat houses (they are not made of peat, but were used to store it) and then the stone circles on Brats Moss, where I paused to put on my waterproofs as it had just started to rain. Instead of following the main path over to Miterdale I took the narrower one across the hillside to the right, leading to Burnmoor Tarn above the worst of the boggy bits. I can recommend this path as an alternative to the busy, and often wet, pony track. I had my lunch at the old keepers cottage, and then went down to the left over initially boggy ground before dropping down to the head of Miterdale. By now the sun was coming out and the walk down the valley to Low Place was very pleasant. After leaving Low Place by the wrong path, and having to do a bit of stream hopping, I turned right down the forestry road for half a mile, and then up and over, past the Outward Bound School, to Eskdale Green. Having walked from Boot to Burnmoor and back down Miterdale, I wasn't looking forward to the trudge back along the road. If I'd had any money I would have contemplated catching the train to Dalegarth, but alas my pockets were empty. Fortunately I soon found a path which led down to the bridge at Milkingstead and a pleasant riverside walk back to Dalegarth Hall. I could see the cottage where my aunt and uncle used to live, and although it has a private drive I walked past it for old times sake. I don't suppose the occupants minded. Having passed the cottage, I joined the track over Doctor Bridge and down to the main road opposite the old school. Boot was now only 10 minutes away, and I dragged my hot and exhausted body into the Burnmoor for a pint of cold orange and lemonade.

Tuesday September 19th - Upper Eskdale

Tuesday dawned bright and sunny, and I drove towards Hardknott and parked on the wide grass verge opposite Brotherilkeld Farm. From here Bowfell is prominent at what appears to be the head of the valley, but in fact Eskdale bends round to the left, and from the Great Moss Bowfell is barely visible and the valley obviously belongs to Esk Pike. The walk up the valley to Lingcove Bridge, alongside the musical waters of the Esk, is a sheer delight, and although the valley is quite long the walk seems to pass quickly. I stopped, as is traditional, at Lingcove Bridge and summoned my energy for the only climb of the day up the Cowcove zig-zags to Throstlegarth and the gateway to the Great Moss. I kept my feet dry by following the ruins of an old wall along the middle of the moss until I was level with Ill Crag and Little Narrowcove, and then crossed the river and headed for Cam Spout. I half had it in mind to climb up alongside the falls and ascend Scafell via Foxes Tarn, returning over Slight Side, but it was such a perfect day, and such a comfortable rock I had found to sit on, that I lingered far too long. I think that if I were granted one last day in the Lake District, this is where I would like to spend it. Eventually I dragged myself away and returned to Brotherilkeld by the boggy path across the hollow below Siverybield Crag.

Wednesday September 20th - Eel Tarn, Burnmoor, Boot

I woke to torrential rain, which continued to midday. Eventually it eased off a bit, and I set off up the track on the right bank of Whillan Beck to Eel Tarn. I passed the tarn on the left side, on very boggy ground, and headed for Burnmoor. The worst bit was where the path dropped down to Lambford Bridge, there being no alternative except to grit my teeth and wade through the bog. I climbed up away from the bridge to join the Burnmoor pony track and returned to Boot.

Thursday September 21st - Eskdale Green, Ilgill Head, Burnmoor

The weather was indifferent, so I caught the Ratty to Eskdale Green and climbed up through Miterdale Forest to Whin Rigg and Ilgill Head, returning via Burnmoor.

Friday September 22nd - Home

I woke up to grey, cloudy skies, with a spit of rain in the air and a strong wind. I packed my bags, cleaned the house and set off for home.