Scafell Pike from Borrowdale


I suppose I had to include Scafell Pike; there are more pleasant walks and better views, but the sense of achievment makes up for it. Don't underestimate this walk, however. It is long and tough, and the average (i.e. not quite fit!) walker will need a full day to complete it.
Park on the grass verge by Seathwaite farm, possibly the wettest inhabited place in England (avr. 130 in per year). Keswick, only 8 miles away averages 'only' 51 in. Sprinkling Tarn has the highest rainfall at 185 in. You'll have to be there early at popular times, otherwise you'll have to park at Seatoller and walk back along the road. This isn't too bad when you're setting off, but is not an enjoyable prospect at the end of a long day on the fells. Whatever you do, please don't obstruct the turning area by the farm gates.
Walk through the farm and follow the track straight ahead, passing through several gates and over a couple of wooden bridges, climbing gently until you reach Stockley bridge. This is a good place to stop before the more strenuous work begins; in fact, judging by the number of people here at times, quite a few get no further. The bridge isn't as old as it looks. The original was largely destroyed by a tremendous flood in August 1966, and had to be rebuilt.
Cross the bridge to the right bank of Grains Gill and go through a gate. You have two choices here; you can bear left and follow Grains Gill, which is an uninterrupted slog, or you can climb straight ahead to Styhead. (Is Styhead one word or two? Sty means stairs, or a pass, so it would seem logical that Sty Head is the top of the pass). In either case the goal is Esk Hause.
My preference would be for the Sty Head route, except that it will be used for the descent. If you don't mind treading the same ground again, then climb to Sty Head Tarn. Walk past the tarn, and when you come to the mountain rescue box bear sharp left, taking the path which climbs between Seathwaite Fell and Great End. You soon reach the real reason for taking this route - Sprinkling Tarn, a beautiful little tarn lying beneath the crags of Great End. The temptation to linger is strong, but you've still got a lot of walking to do.
In actual fact, the Grains Gill route isn't so bad; it's just that you miss Sprinkling Tarn. If you choose this way, then turn left after Stockley bridge and follow the wall for about 100 yds, before crossing the gill by a wooden bridge. The path now follows the left bank of the gill up a long stretch of 'maintained' path (N.T.) which is a vast improvement on the river of loose stones of former years. In its upper reaches the stream passes through the dramatic gorge of Ruddy Gill. It is here that you join the path from Sprinkling Tarn. Turn left and follow the path to Esk Hause. You don't have to go all the way to the shelter at the base of Allen Crags; a path climbs diagonally to the right away from the main one.
At Esk Hause, if you don't fancy Scafell Pike, you can turn left and climb Esk Pike. In any case, its worth walking forward until you get a view down into Eskdale. There a also good views of the Langdale Pikes. The Scafell path, however, goes right, climbing round the back of Great End into the stony wilderness of Calf Cove. Above the cove begin to bear left up the boulder field of Broad Crag. For half a mile the path is very rough, and you have to step from boulder to boulder before reaching the summit. The path now descends to a saddle, Broad Crag Col, before the final ascent to Scafell Pike, which is once again very rough and steep. Finally you arrive at the summit cairn, the highest point in England.
The descent initially heads towards Mickledore and Scafell before descending half-right towards Wasdale. After a steep descent the path splits, the left branch going down to Wasdale, and the right branch leading to the Corridor Route. In mist the turn off isn't always easy to spot.
Follow the path on fairly level ground round the base of Broad Crag until you reach the head of Piers Gill, a gloomy gorge which plummits down between Lingmell and Great End. THERE IS NO DESCENT BY PIERS GILL. Once you're in it you won't get out again! Cross the head of the gill and follow the path to a rock face, which you have to climb. It's not difficult though, and the last time I was there some helpful person had painted a large yellow arrow on it, indicating the route. There now follows a steep descent to the badly eroded gully of Spout Head. Cross it as best you can and head downhill to Sty Head Tarn. The way back to Seathwaite is the reverse of that described earlier. In the summer, the small cafe at the farm sells very welcome pints of cold orange squash.

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