Dharmarajika Buddhist Stupa and Monastery
Dharmarajika, probably the oldest stupa erected in Pakistan, is one of the most impressive. Emperor Ashoka built the first stupa in the third century BC to enclose a small relic chamber containing some of the ashes of Buddha; over the centuries this was enlarged and votive stupas and a monastery were added.
You enter the site at the southwest corner. The main stupa, 15 metres (50 feet) high and 50 metres (165 feet) in diameter, dominates the complex. Treasure hunters cut a great slice into its west side while searching for the golden casket containing Buddhas relics.
The original smaller stupa is encased in the heart of the larger one. Stupas could never be destroyed, so when the Buddhists wished to enlarge a stupa they simply built another shell around the old one. The present outside layer dates from the time of the great Kushan king Kanishka, in the second century AD.
It is difficult to imagine what Dharmarajika looked like when Taxila was at its height. Originally the whole dome of the stupa was plastered and gilded; a tall mast rose from the top and supported at least seven stone discs (like those on the stone umbrella in the museum). The dome was also surrounded by painted and gilded statues of Buddha and carvings depicting his life, all have been removed to the museum for safekeeping. The other buildings in the complex were plastered and painted in many colours. The main stupa was surrounded by small stupas, all with spires like Burmese or Thai pagodas today.
Two processional paths go round the stupa, one on the ground, the other on a terrace. As part of their devotions the monks walked in a clockwise direction, so that their right (clean) hand was closest to the stupa. Four flights of steps lead up to the terrace at the four cardinal points. To the left of the eastern flight of steps is the best preserved section of the base. a broad band of ornamental stonework dating from the fourth to the fifth century AD. Little niches that once contained Buddhas are framed with trefoil arches alternating with portals. The niches are separated from each other by Corinthian pilasters.
On the left of the eastern steps is the base of a column which probably once supported a lion capital in imitation of the well-known pillars of Ashoka. These were frequently set up beside important Buddhist stupas. Around the main stupa there is a whole galaxy of smaller votive stupas that date from the first century BC to the fourth century AD. These were built by rich pilgrims as a means of attaining blessing and gaining merit.
Outside the ring of votive stupas is a large stupa (labelled J on the map) which dates from the second century AD. This is one of the best preserved in the complex. The base is square, with three diminishing terraces, but the dome has gone. In the centre of the lowest terrace is a statue of Buddha ensconced in a trefoil niche. On the middle terrace is a row of headless Buddhas each attended to by devotees wearing typical Kushan dress: baggy trousers and a long coat (forerunner to the modern shalwar-kameez). On their shoulders rests the top terrace, which was lowered to this position during repairs in the late fourth or fifth century AD, by which time the Buddhas were probably already headless. During these repairs a row of Atlantes figures alternating with elephants were also added to the second terrace. Their grotesqueness and lifelessness indicate that Gandharan sculpture had gone into decline by the fifth century AD.
Going north along the path you come to a row of open-sided chapels or alcoves on the right. The last two of these contain the remains of four huge lime plaster feet that once supported two enormous statues of Buddha. Marshall estimates that the biggest must have been 11 metres (35 feet) high. On either side of the feet are the legs and feet of other figures, some still with traces of red paint. Originally they were all painted and gilded.
To the north is a large monastery. Here the monks could retreat within the high windowless walls and escape the constant stream of pilgrims visiting the shrine. In the monastery there are five courtyards dating from the first century BC to the sixth century AD. In the centre of each courtyard are the remains of a stupa and round the edge are the monks¼ cells. all opening onto the court. The largest court, furthest away to the north, dates from the second to the third century AD: it was two storeys high and accommodated 104 monks. The bath was in the southwestern corner. The hall of assembly stood in the centre of the monastery. Outside the north wall was a sturdy watchtower.
In the mid-third century AD the Sassanian invaders destroyed all this and the monastery was rebuilt to a smaller more easily defended plan. This in turn, was burned by the White Huns in about 455AD. Six decapitated skeletons, charred and crushed, were found in the small court on the right (east). The monastery was rebuilt roughly and cheaply and was finally abandoned in about the seventh century.
Retracing your steps to the colossal feet take the path to the right (west). It enters a narrow passage between two votive stupas: on the left one sit two headless Buddhas of the fourth to fifth century AD. Their hands rest in their laps in an attitude of meditation.
In the open space ahead is a tank from the first century BC lined with the original lime plaster. This was the monks¼ bathing pool. Steps lead down from the north A votive stupa was built over the top of the steps in the second century AD. West of the tank is a votive stupa (labelled K) on the north face of which a statue of Buddha sits in a niche. The cornice and other details show Greek influence.
To the north of this is a large building (labelled H) that Marshall thinks probably once housed a statue of the reclining dying Buddha. It was built in the first century BC and strengthened and enlarged after a severe earthquake in about AD 30 when the processional path was added.
Heading south from the building of the dying Buddha, you pass two small water tanks and a washerman¼s stones, and come to a group of stupas of different ages and styles. In one of these (labelled G) a silver vase containing a silver scroll and small gold casket holding tiny fragments of bone were found. The scroll, written in Kharoshthi, the Gandharan script, and dated about AD 78, claims that these are the relics of the Lord Buddha enshrined by Urasaka to bring health to the Kushan king, to his family, friends, relations and to himself. "May this right munificent gift lead to Nirvana."
To the south of these stupas. and nearer the main stupa is another stupa (labelled R) on the back wall of which are some reliefs in stucco plaster dating from the second century AD. The scene on the north side depicts Buddha¼s horse Kathaka taking leave of his master: the one on the south side portrays the Departure of Buddha (Prince Siddhartha setting off on his search for enlightenment). These are the earliest Gandharan stucco reliefs yet found: earlier statues were made of stone.
To the west of the site is the apsidalãor round-endedãtemple (labelled I) built in the first century AD where the faithful used to gather to pray. It may have had a barrel-vaulted roof, similar in shape to the chaitya halls (caves) excavated in the hillside at Ajanta and Ellora in India, except that here the apse is octagonal. Inside the apse are the foundations of an octagonal Stupa. West of the apsidal temple, and next to the exit is a row of four monks¼ cells which predate the monastery.
Back