7/3/03 Report from Bryan's wife Joan. They started walking Tuesday morning, as you probably know, and tonight they are at a place called Shortlanesend, Truro. The weather is mixed but they sound in good spirits.

12/3/03 Report from Joan. So far, so good. They sound in good spirits and have just been amazed at the hospitality they have received along the way. Sunday 9th, day 6, having been unable to find a site, knocked at a farmhouse for permission to camp in a field and were taken in, given a bed and their own bathroom with towels, which as you know after using your pack towel is such a luxury. They would have been provided with a meal had they not had their dried food soaking ready to cook but they cooked it on the Aga and were given glasses of wine with their meal. Next morning, breakfast, and no charge at all. Yesterday, 11th March, they had to have a B&B in Launceston which cost them quite a lot so it's swings and roundabouts. They had a long day yesterday and are both very tired today, plus Bryan's having trouble with his feet and Ron with his hip. They are thinking of doing a couple of short days rather than risk having real problems.

15/3/03 Report from Joan. Bryan & Ron were at the YHA Okehampton on Thursday 13th and then Salmon Hutch near Crediton on Friday night. Today they're heading for Tiverton. They did 18 miles yesterday which was too far so they may not make it to Tiverton tonight. They keep saying they'll do a couple of short days but haven't so far. The weather is freezing cold at night but the last couple of days, during the day, it's been cold but very sunny, so nice walking weather. The only problem seems to be that the wind is strong and in their faces.

21/3/03 Report from Joan. Bryan and Ron are still right on schedule. They camped in a field at Othery on 18th March, had a great campsite at Glastonbury on 19th and then another campsite at Old Down last night. Tonight they are in the Youth Hostel at Bath and hoping to meet up with Christine. If she is still only one day ahead, she should reach Bath today as well.
The weather as you know has been fantastic. The only down side is the fact that the nights are so cold and frosty. Bryan's feet are still giving him trouble and he is so annoyed about it. Ron is having bother with his shoulders but they seem to be enjoying it all the same.
Given the problems they are having, all the more credit to them for continuing and keeping to their planned schedule.

29/3/03 Report from Joan Bryan asked me to let you know that they changed their route slightly. They went from Hodgecombe Farm to Painswick then realised that they could take a more direct route than planned up to Gloucester and then on to the Severn Way. They went to Wainlode Hill OS849258, up the Severn Way to Riverside at Clevelode on Thursday night, Friday they were at Holt Fleet and tonight at the club site at Wolverley. They are looking forward to that so they can have a hot shower and get their washing done.
Last Saturday evening Bryan's son and daughter in law, Andy & Carole, met him with his little grandson Joseph. He was over the moon as they live in Oxfordshire so he doesn't see that much of them. Tonight his other son Jamie is going to meet him for a pint and if she can make it, Bryan's sister Angela will go too.
The weather as you know is still glorious, so long may it last. Bryan reports that he is as brown as a berry and his trousers are starting to feel looser so he's getting rid of the dreaded belly.
I've attached a couple of photos and I'll send another couple from the next batch soon.

1/4/03 Report from Joan Bryan & Ron have done most of the first couple of weeks on roads which is why Bryan's had so much trouble with his feet. Lately though they had been on The Severn Way, Staffordshire and Worcester Canal and Staffordshire Way so are finding it a lot better. Unfortunately, the feet have to heal and haven't yet, and Ron is still having trouble with his shoulders, so they are now doing shorter days. It means they are now about a half day behind schedule.
Last night they were at Brewood and were given a pitch by the Fire Brigade who also took them into the clubhouse and bought them a drink. I don't know if I mentioned that Bryan was walking for charity, in fact for the Association of Spina Bifida and Hydrocephalus. His little girl had this and sadly died at age 2½. Anyway the firemen sponsored him and in total I think he's been given about £80 along the way up to now, starting with two old ladies who gave him £10 each on the train to Penzance before he'd walked a step. Tonight they will be halfway between Birmingham and Stoke on Trent at a place called Rugely.
They have asked me to send their sympathies and best wishes to Christine. Some injuries you can't ignore or continue to walk with, but they hope that she'll be back on track soon.

6/4/03 Report from Joan The latest update is that Bryan & Ron are both having problems with their feet which are badly blistered with too much road walking. They finally decided to be sensible and have split a 14 mile day into two 7 mile days to give themselves a break which means they are now 1 day behind schedule. They went from the Staffordshire Way onto the Limestone way and on Thursday night camped near Thorpe. Friday, along the Tissington Trail which connected to Wolfscote Dale, camping at Barracks Farm. Saturday, heading to Pomeroy via Hartington on the Midshires Way.
Tonight they should be at Edale and on Monday they will start the Pennine Way. They both report that they are feeling exhausted and are looking forward to having a couple of rest days over the Easter weekend.

They were devastated to hear of Christine's injury. Bryan was in touch with her all through the planning stages and he knows how he would feel if he had to give up after the amount of work that goes into it.

16/4/2003 Report from Joan Bryan and Ron are still going and last night were at Tan Hill. They sound in better spirits since they got onto the Pennine Way and are getting nearer home, plus of course the thought of a few days off over Easter. If he has time while he's home, I'll get him to send you some news in a bit more detail.

18/4/2003 Report from Bryan, back home for a short break. Well we are certainly impressed with the web site it's the first time I've seen it today.
We would have sent slightly more details to you if we had known a little more about the format. However I think we have been able to relay the gist of what is happening day to day, and it is not always possible to phone Joan daily.

So just to put you a little more in the picture I will begin by saying that reading the books and looking at the maps is a far cry from actually doing the walking! Very soon we started to look at the proposed walking for the next day more with a view to time of arrival and distances involved, where as the book waxes lyrical about popping into this teashop and that antique pub!

As Joan has informed you we have between us had some problems. Ron with Hip and shoulders, me with my feet. About a month before we were due to start and train tickets and other monies had been spent I developed Plantar Fasciitis. For those who don't know it means that it feels as if I have a small stone lodged under my heel mostly on the left but as the day wears on, both. If people see me first thing in the morning they do not believe I am walking anywhere but after a short while it will ease and I can walk fairly normally. After a couple of hours I have to stop and rest it, and then again around brew time at mid-day. This means that if we keep to sensible mileages the problem is manageable however circumstances sometimes mean longer days/walks are necessary.

Like the day we had been assured that Mankinholes would be open so decided on a leisurely walk there. We wandered through the day and arrived really early dropping down to the pub at around 4.15pm. to discover it did not open until 6pm. We wandered along to the YHA and waited around the back for it to open at 5, for some reason I felt something was wrong and phoned from outside/side to hear the recorded announcement say," We do not open until Easter!!! " We went back to the front door and no sign of any notice but there was one for a possible camp site just down the road at Cross Farm. So now getting worried about the time we went straight there to be offered the chance to camp in a disgusting field full of holes where cattle had recently stood, for the princely sum of £3.50, knowing that you have many lady readers of a gentle disposition I will not tell you what we said or thought, which was worse. Now as it was getting late we had to find a suitable site very quickly. We spotted a site on the map (OS962 284) which had a pub, camping and a phone indicated. The problem was it was some 3½ miles most of it straight up!! When we got there they said, "There is no food today and we don't have a camp site but looking at you two you better pitch in the beer garden, and we will phone for a takeaway for you."

So with all that has happened we are still going, just, and are now taking a short rest before we continue from Cow Green reservoir on the Pennine Way in a few days time.

25/4/03 Report from Joan Before their break they were at Cow Green Reservoir just before Garrigill and last night they reached Alston. Tonight they should be at Greenhead but I'll let you have a proper report in a few days time.

29/4/03 Report from Bryan Unfortunately we have had to return home from Bellingham as my feet have turned septic so another enforced break I am afraid, this is proving quite an ordeal. To cap it all the last night I spent in my tent the outer leaked, came through the inner and wet my down sleeping bag!!

I am beginning to think this is some sort of test of character. We will keep you informed of our progress in due course.

8/5/2003 Report from Bryan I have had a few people contact me and ask for an update so I thought if they are nice enough to bother I ought to get one to you.

As you know I had a septic right foot and terrible pain in the left. In fact as it turned out the right was caused by compensating for the left.
So the doctor and local nurse quickly sorted the blister infection and that with the help of some anti-biotics is hopefully sorted. Just need the skin to toughen up and it will be fine.

As to the ligament pain, this may be of use to other colleagues. I went to see Andrew at the Rebound clinic in Settle reboundclinic.co.uk. He was nice enough to fit me in to his busy schedule without the usual wait. Once there he did a thorough investigation and then filmed me walking on a treadmill. Finally he made me some inserts for my boots and shoes and assured me I should be fit to restart in a week to ten days. All I can say is that I am praying hard. I will of course keep you informed.

Cheers
Bryan

14/5/2003 From Bryan Thanks for your recent encouraging email, I must say it is nice that so many people have bothered to contact me and offer moral support.

Now I am not sure if it ok to keep sending you pictures so we won't be offended if you say stop or only use some of them or don't us them at all.

1/6/2003 from Bryan Well we will be starting again on Monday 2nd June, I will have just about everything crossed, (which will make walking difficult!), But we are praying that nothing else goes wrong.
I am beginning to think that this trip is cursed or something. After all the good weather and wonderful people we have met so far to find we had to stop because of my bloomin feet was devastating. Then my tent leaked and my down sleeping bag got wet!
Now having bought a new tent and made plans to start on Monday I have started a stinking cold. I think that if I let the side down again Ron will probably carry on to the end now as we are both so fed up and keyed up with wanting to get it done. We will of course keep you informed of our progress through Joan.

7/6/2003 From Joan As you know Bryan & Ron started their walk again last Monday at Bellingham, where I had picked them up a few weeks ago. They walked from there to the Byrness Hotel where they had free camping in the paddock. Unfortunately, I had to break the news to them about Ron Haslam's death over the phone that night. They were devastated as you can imagine and Bryan said the next day, they walked either in silence or talking about Ron.

Tuesday, they were on the Pennine Way on the Cheviots to Dere Street where after a frantic search for water, they found a nice place to wild camp.

Wednesday, back on to Dere Street to Lilliardsedge campsite which was very nice.

Thursday to Melrose and a really comfortable Camping Club site.

Friday, to Galasheils and on to Southern Uplands Way to Broadmeadows.

They were supposed to stay at the YH at Broadmeadows and had both sent a food parcel there for collection. Having been unable to get through to them, I phoned the helpline for the SYH's on Thursday and they told me that it was closed until 4th July. There had been flash floods which had taken out a bridge, and a landslide had closed the road to the Youth Hostel. After frantic enquiries at the Sorting Office, they were told that rather than return the parcels to sender, a thoughtful postman had left them at a nearby hotel.

When they reached the Hotel, they said they had given the parcels to the lady who works in the YH which of course was closed. As the lads went to see if there was any sign of them at the YH, a car drew up with the said lady in it, and they got their parcels. Not only that, but she insisted that they slept in the YH. The reason it had to close was that the water tanks had been washed off the top of the hill but there was no problem with the interior and she had just been to collect some water for her own use.

So, all in all, everything is going very well. Bryan's feet are fine and so is Ron's hip.

22/06/03 Report from Joan The last update was when Bryan & Ron reached Broadmeadows on Friday 6th. They left there on the Saturday and went up steeply onto the Southern Uplands Way to Rosetta, Peebles where there was a Morris Minor rally going on. Bryan used to have one with a split screen many, many years ago so he was delighted.

The following day they went to Carlops walking through a delightful wood in dappled sunshine but by the afternoon it was pouring with rain, There was no campsite when they reached Carlops so they carried on for another mile and a half and found a nice wild camp by the reservoir.

Monday they walked through the Pentland hills. Easy walking to West Clifton where there was a site with all facilities and they could get all their washing done etc. There was no pub nearby but the lady bought them four cans of Guinness. Tuesday over the Forth Bridge to one mile north of Inverkeithly where the Scottish Scout headquarters let them camp on their land. Wednesday to Kinross or rather, half a mile outside to Gallowhill Farm. Thursday to South Arditte to a simple farm pitch. The last four days had been mostly road walking and the feet were very sore.

Friday 13th, they missed the route slightly but found a good wild pitch on the edge of a forest with a good supply of water. Saturday through the forest to Aberfeldy. Sunday, some road walking then a lovely forest walk to Pitlochry. It was a hot sunny day and they were delighted to see an ice cream parlour on the way in. They chatted to the owner while they had an ice cream and he said he owned a restaurant in town and they were to come in that night and have a free meal with his compliments, which they did. They left him and walked on to the camp site and the lady gave them that free of charge as well.

Monday was overcast but a nice walk along the river to Blair Atholl. Tuesday, up into Glen Tilt, pleasant walking but a long day, about 16 miles, to a wild camp. Wednesday they had to cross a wide river on stepping stones made very difficult by a very strong wind which was catching their packs and making them lose their balance. Bryan made it over but Ron got a boot full of water. From there to the White Bridge, up the Lharig Ghru where the weather turned even nastier. Gale force winds and squally rain. They were supposed to camp at the Pools of Dee but it was just a boulder field and the wind was blowing them off their feet so they walked on and eventually met another walker who told them of a place they could pitch. Unfortunately, to get some water they had to climb down a 1 in 2 and they were exhausted by the time they eventually got into their tents.

Thursday it was still windy but they were walking downhill through Rothy Murcus forest to Boat of Garten. They had planned to have a meal in the pub but when they got there, they were told that they had a party of twenty in for a meal so no bar meals were being served that night. They were pretty disgusted at this and had to go to a shop and buy food to cook in their tents.

Friday the wind dropped which meant the midges were out in force and although the weather was quite warm, they had to walk with their hoods up to keep the midges at bay.

Today, it has rained a lot but they've walked and walked, about 16 miles again to reach Inverness by about 7pm. They are very tired and the feet are sore but they are one day ahead now with only two weeks to go. The phone call from Bryan ended with him saying he was off to the pub for a well earned pint.

6/7/2003 Report from Bryan. Well that's it, we did it. We crossed the line at John O'Groats on Thursday the third of July at 12 noon exactly, and although it was not planned it seems pretty apt really. It was grey overhead but dry with a lot of wind.

However I should start at Inverness as that's where Joan took you to in the last e-mail.

We stayed in a very unsatisfactory backpackers hostel having tramped through such torrential rain it managed to get into our packs and through our waterproofs! Couple that with the fact that we had to do the last couple of hours in heavy mist it was one time when we were glad to be just following a road.

The next morning we had a big breakfast in a cafe and continued on to Dingwall. This was a very sunny day with plenty of wind to keep the dreaded midge at bay. Dingwall is a camping club site and so had full facilities which we were going to find hard to come by from now on. We went to the restaurant on Dingwall station as recommended by the site warden and I had the best meal I had had on the whole walk, unfortunately Ron's was not so hot.

The rest of the journey became somewhat surreal as we started to do different mileages and saved several days because we were starting early and very often could not find a suitable wild camp due to the lack of water. This was the first of such days, we were heading for Alness but when we got there there was nowhere to camp and as it was fairly early we continued and ended up asking a farmer if we could pitch. "Of course you can ", he said, "I knew you were coming because of the dogs, just go and put your tents in that field and then come and have a shower." We had done several extra miles.

Then we headed for Miekle ferry but because we could not find the route through the forest, (the one we had been told about proved to be a ride!), we ended up going around by road and as we came to the bridge first and it was fairly early we went over and camped at a site just outside Dornoch.

We went from there past Golspie and Dunrobin castle to Brora to a very poor camp site which cost us a fiver. Here we picked up a parcel with food for 4 days, as we had planned at least three wild camps over the next few days. We had started from Brora fairly early and walked up the A9 to Lothbeg. Here we turned up to the Strath of Kildonan and kept going until we got to Upper Susgill where we could at last get off the road and actually camped in a very nice sheep fold which had soft grass and no poo. Apparently there had not been sheep up there for several years. Imagine how surprised I was when I was checking and we had saved another day. The reason being that we could not find water anywhere.

Then next it was on to Forsinard, where there is a hotel which is open all day. The chap there told us of a super wild camp with good clean water and a friendly gamekeeper. The site was 5 miles away, he said so and the map said so. So when we had been walking for about an hour and a half we thought we had better check our position with the GPS, only to find we had gone well past it!! This at the end of the day with fairly full packs and a fair amount of food. As I say it was weird the mileages we managed. The next morning was horrendous, it was the first time we ever had serious trouble with midges. There was not a breath of wind and when we got outside it was murder. It was the only time I ever saw Ron truly rattled, he was demented with them. I think this was because they had tasted how sweet he was as he had been out with his trowel. We got away from there asap! Then on to Reay camp site in dull weather. Only when we got there the lady said well we are trying to run it down but if you don't mind no hot water you are welcome to pitch free, so we did. At least she had some water!

On to the fleshpots of Thurso which is genuinely a big town, with rail and bus stations, restaurants and hotels. We stayed at the municipal camp site which is very good and very friendly. They have all the facilities and it was good to get the washing done. we both went commando and washed and dried everything except our waterproofs! Then off to find a meal at the central hotel where they do a very nice range of real ales.

The next day we headed for Castletown then on up to the lighthouse at Dunnet head where we were forced to take water from a rainwater loch as we could find no running water at all. However with the use of tablets we were fine.

I have not mentioned the weather lately as it was just grey with fairly strong winds but on this exposed point it was gale force and we tried in vain to find a sheltered spot. Finally we saw a level pitch just off the top on the leeward side. Both tents stood up well though and we had a very comfortable night on mossy grass. The next morning we returned to the lighthouse to take a few snaps and then off to the youth hostel at Canisbay.

This was a distance of some 14 miles and our reason for not completing the journey to John O'Groats only 2¾ miles away was that we still had to go to Duncansby head. This would mean that we had gone to the farthest point North, Dunnet head. The farthest point N/East, Duncansby Head and would end up at JOG. Also everything would be closed when we finally got there, so the hostel seemed the better plan.

We arrived at about 3.45pm and popped into the post office for some bacon and eggs to ensure a hearty breakfast next day and spent a very pleasant and relaxing night in the youth hostel. The next morning the lady warden gave us our certificates, which we promptly posted home.
Then off to Duncansby Head, another grey day but no rain although we were walking straight into a pretty fierce wind. We very soon completed the 2½ miles to the 'T' junction and probably the hardest thing we have done on the walk was to turn right and not left for the ¼ mile to the finish! Instead we had to walk ¼ south and then head due East for 2 miles to Duncansby Head. Still walking into a strong head wind, we realised it would be behind us for the finish.

Having had a brief stop and taken pictures of the lighthouse and the Stacks of Duncansby, we finally headed for the finish. This proved to be a very simple walk along a cliff path, which was certainly shorter by at least ½ mile. We passed a point at which the postal service helicopter was taking post and parcels off to Orkney and suddenly, there it was. We walked in together, shook hands and for some strange reason could not stop grinning! We stopped to have our official pictures taken and then crossed the official line outside the John O'Groats hotel, in for a couple of pints of Guinness and to get our forms validated. Then off to buy cards and phone home to thank my lovely wife for all her support both moral and practical that helped to make it all possible. Unfortunately all Ron's family were at work and he had to wait until the evening to share the good news.

Then bus back to Thurso train station to sort out tickets for Friday 4th July. That done we went to a local backpackers hostel and took an en-suite room for £25, we did this as the train was very early in the morning and we did not want to chance the tents being wet. This hostel was very good and we got a continental breakfast as well. A slap up meal in the Hotel, a few beers and several large whiskies then bed.

The return journey was full of looking out to places we had camped or had a brew at or just seen from a different angle like Dunrobin Castle. We had to change at Inverness and Edinburgh but each time it was a very short delay and so we finally pulled into Newcastle station to a wonderful welcome.

On the platform we were greeted by a piper in full regalia, my wife and step-daughter, several members of the family and wonderfully for Ron, who said he was expecting nobody, his daughter Cath and his other daughter Pam who had flown up that morning. We were also met by the local press who wanted to cover it because we did it for charity and the fact that we'd carried 40lb packs and camped all the way at our age. They did a full page spread on us the next day. (CLICK HERE to see the article)

So there you have it, those of you who have done a long walk will know the sort of high at the finish followed by a sort of low that it's all over, but at the same time a feeling of elation at having done it. It is very complex, after all I have spent every waking moment with Ron for 12 weeks. It's more time than most people spend with their wives! We will go over the walk I am sure and get some sort of article together for Christine to put in the magazine.

In the meantime people keep asking us what it was like. Well we always answer, It's a lousy walk with all the road walking, but we both intend going back to do real justice to some of the constituent parts. The 'Ways we encountered which really would benefit from a more leisurely approach. Like the Cotswold Way, Severn River Way, Staffordshire Way, Limestone Way and several others we only touched on in the SW. Also we were both impressed with the hills in and around Stroud. However the thing we will remember most about this trip is the people we met and their incredible kindness.

Finally, we would both like to say a big thank you to Tony Wilson for keeping friends and family up to speed with us through the web site he has been running.